Wonderland.

NYFW: Altuzarra AW15

Looking to the past to advance to the future, Victorian codes receive vamp-meets-romance remix at Altuzarra AW15.

‘To the modern manor born’

Altuzarra brought back the turn of the century with his sexy, modern take on the Victorian woman. High collars, fur stoles, and English gentlemen’s plaid all made an appearance, culminating in a welcome departure for a designer whose ideal woman is defined by her power, not romanticism – yet in this collection, gets the best of both worlds.

Frills and thrills

Silhouettes remained quintessentially Altuzarra (thigh-high slits reigned, of course) while the romance was in the fabrics: willowy chiffon sleeves and majestic mink collars, right out of an Edith Wharton novel of manners. Just enough frills gave pieces a ladylike edge – pockets, hemlines, and high collars all got the 19th century touch – without going overboard into the fantasy arena of a Galliano or Gaultier collection. No corsets or panniers for this woman: only a sleek, sexy clothes, with a romantic edge.

Odds and ends

Victorian chunky-heeled boots got a modern revision too, with thigh-highs and booties alike topped with a lacy peek-a-boo trim. Handbags – the designer’s exciting first foray into accessories – added both a pop of color and a modern touch with signature braided details and fringe. Looking backward to the past, moving forward to the future: good moves for Altuzarra all around.

Words
Seymour Glass
Photography
Rebecca Forteau
NYFW: Altuzarra AW15

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