For AW15 Raimund Berthold is serving a collection free from frivolity, in which utilitarian details are key, we grab 60 seconds with the man himself.
Berthold AW15 moodboard.
What has inspired you for AW15? Are there any particular artists/design archives/cities/places that you have referenced in particular this season?
I started my research by looking at the work of conceptual Mexican artist Abraham Cruzvillegas. He takes everyday items like envelopes, drawings, receipts and bags that are made from paper and paints them in a single colour, later sticking them onto walls like a mosaic. The AW15 collection was put together in a similar way. I collected hundreds of images of garment details and then simplified them. The result is a collection free of frivolity, with a focus on detailing.
What has been the soundtrack for this collection?
I always have BBC Radio 6 Music on in the studio. Their playlist goes between the hideous and inspired, so it keeps everyone happy and we can either sing along or bitch about what they might play. I also love MMOTHS. Jack has lent us a previously unheard track to play at our LC:M presentation, which will be BERTHOLD’s first!
Who is the ultimate pin up guy for AW15?
I am very fickle with my muses. I can’t understand how people can reduce their style or vision to just one person – I am interested in so many different things. Just send me a picture of yourself and who knows, you might end up on next season’s moodboard.
So how does AW15 compare to your last collection?
This collection is all about cut and the simplification of utilitarian details. There is more drama and sophistication than previous collections and because it is being presented at LC:M there is a different feel to the clothes. They have a different job to do in that moment.
What sort of details can we expect?
Unexpected pockets that become bags, extra large storm cuffs and openings where you really don’t need them.
Okay last one, give us a sneak preview in three words…
Vorsprung durch technik.