We talk first fashion cravings and the autonomous man with Malte Flagstad, the brains behind Danish menswear brand Tonsure.
Since graduating from the Central Saint Martins Fashion MA in 2010, Malte Flagstad has slowly been etching his name into the fashion world. Packing up and heading to Paris, Flagstad started his trade working for Maison Martin Margiela before making the decision to start his own menswear brand that uses fabrics solely sourced from Italy and Japan before being manufactured in Europe. Whilst his debut AW14 collection was exclusively launched at United Arrows & Sons in Tokyo in close collaboration with Director and Buyer Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi, SS15 sees the brand expand its reach to many more Japanese retailers.
What was your first encounter with fashion?
One of my first encounters that I clearly remember was wanting to get a vintage 70’s silky shirt with frills at the front when I was about 12. I remember this as a big fashion craving, but luckily I never succeeded in finding one.
Did you always want to be a designer?
No, I wanted to be an architect. I had an interest in architecture and furniture design from quite a young age. My mum worked as a set designer for theatre so I was always exposed to interiors, exteriors and costumes. In the end I guess the clothes won me over.
What did working at Margiela teach you as a designer?
To be as creative as possible but still maintain wearability and some sort of function. It’s clothes we are making after all.
Explain the Tonsure aesthetic?
Our aesthetic is never fixed but develops progressively like we all do. I always emphasize cut, detail, colour and texture but generally like to keep things simple, not minimalistic, but simple and honest.
What do you aim to convey through your designs?
The clothes I design are a reflection of who I am or who I would like to be. Clothes that carry a certain statement however subdued and toned down they may be. Ultimately I would like for Tonsure to offer clothes that feel exciting now and will continue to do so beyond trends and seasons.
Who is the ultimate Tonsure pin up?
If a pin up can be a man, I think he is everywhere. It’s the autonomous man who has the confidence to define himself and his own style.
What inspires you as a designer?
That is very hard to pinpoint, inspiration is constant and everywhere, you just need to tune in and be thorough about it.
What’s next for Tonsure?
New ideas, new faces, new collaborations, new countries. I like to push things forward at a steady but fast pace, so far its been great fun doing it.