Donna Karan SS15 was a trip through the urban Spanish barrio, equal parts chic and urban whilst show-stealing hats elevated the aesthetic, literally
Welcome to the barrio
A marked departure from last season’s all-black New York-inspired collection, SS15 for Donna Karan was a trip through the urban Spanish barrio, equal parts chic and urban. On the chic end of the spectrum: puffy sleeves, cinched waists, and even a Chanel-inspired tweed suit, with a burnt-orange fringe along the bottom edge of a cropped jacket.
On the urban end: paint spatters, newspapery layers, and shiny black shoulder straps, which held together to the front and back of garments like duct tape. A bit of Basquiat, Celine SS15, and Alexander McQueen’s 1999 spray-painting robots collection.
Amidst an LED background of evolving scrawls – harried brushstrokes evoked a wall being constantly gratified – Malaika Firth, Josephine Le Tutour, and Saskia deBrauw walked to a percussive Cuban beat of Tribal Target’s “Suvelo.”
Lest the overall impression totter too far into the neighborhood of ‘grunge’, Karan elevated the aesthetic by expanding on the ‘art’ factor with minimalist accessories – milky translucent belts, and nude sandals with a sculptured heel. As for those tall, show-stealing hats, perched against slicked hair like brimmed beehives – talk about literally elevating the aesthetic. Between the heels and the extra two feet of straw and tattered fabric on her head, show-closing Karlie Kloss was stacked higher than any graffiti-covered pillar.
Words: Seymour Glass.