With LC:M mere days away, we catch up with Austrian brand Berthold to see what they have in store for us for SS15
It probably won’t have escaped your attention that this week is a big one for the (mostly) male population of our fair country. World Cup fever is officially taking over and this weekend also sees the start of London Collections: Men’s SS15 show season. Whilst we are used to looking to the future in the fashion industry, sometimes even a few days is an unbearable wait to feast one’s eyes on new gear. With that in mind, we caught up with the captain of the Berthold team to get an exclusive sneak preview of the brand’s upcoming SS15 collection. References to plastic, vintage rainwear and “aggressive stripes” are on the horizon, something we are rather intrigued about to say the least.
Where did you gain the inspiration for your upcoming SS15 collection?
I was looking at the Tokyo Impressions by photographer Michael Wolf – the images are beautiful and sad at the same time. They capture a moment in time when you want to be on your own, but cannot escape the city. My mood board naturally had a lot of references to plastic, either clear or molten, the texture of food wrapping and latex. As always I have been looking at the details of vintage rainwear and there are some photographs of insects too. Every season begins the same for me with a visual excursion through my books and the works of my favourite artists.
Your AW14 collection used pops of fuschia against a largely monochrome palette. What can we expect for SS15?
I have worked with the artist Tara Langford this season on some prints for this collection and I love the graphic tone of her work. There will be a black and white print of course and a “biro blue” print with some aggressive yellow stripes.
How do you think your Austrian upbringing has influenced your design aesthetic?
I grew up in a ski resort in the Alps, surrounded by ski and hiking wear and so for me it is always function over style, and style over colour when I design. And sometimes I just do what I want.
How do you plan to evolve the Berthold brand in the future?
We have been steadily growing and have made additions to the collection like bags in cotton, neoprene and leather and this season we’ve worked on a beautiful scarf. It is printed silk and cashmere and produced with Begg & Co. who have been weaving cashmere, silk and lambs wool angora yarns in Ayr, Scotland since 1866. I enjoy these collaborations and there will be definitely many more!
What are the biggest challenges for your brand in an ever-growing menswear market?
The biggest challenge is to just stay focused and edit. To keep the quality high and enjoy the process. Then the customers will appreciate it as much as you do.
Which other shows are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I only ever look at the collections once they have been shown. I’m not that interested in who is showing, as I am more interested in what they are showing. It’s more surprising that way.
Other than LC:M, what else do you have planned for the year?
We will be at “Capsule” in Paris and also for the first time at “Seek” in Berlin, and we will have a big SS15 Launch Party during LC:M. Also we have been re-designing our website with Assembly and I’m excited to show people. I just hope that people enjoy what we do – otherwise, what’s the point?
Words: https: Jordan Porteous