It’s New York Fashion Week, and we’re getting on the show report bandwagon.
Designers! Socialites! Babies! (No, sadly not Dem Babies, but still.) Here is our round one of New York Fashion Week (full reports to follow).
In recent years, the trademarks of Alexander Wang turned to Manhattan blacks and socialite-meets-hipster silhouettes. But taking the monochrome structure to Paris with his recent Balenciaga appointment, Wang is reliving the glory days of his luxury louche label with a hyped up brand redux. From waistbands to leather jackets, the Wang logo shouted in camp pride – forget New York madam, it’s all in the logo. From the cropped vests, matching shorts, shredded dresses (spelling the designer’s name, so lush), to the not-so-subtly ironic Parental Guidance emblazoned jumper with sheer panels, the SS14 Alexander Wang collection is all about rebellious youth – in designer tees, that is.
We’re already seeing a shred happy trend (with Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra piece-making monochrome dresses). But Altuzarra was less about loud and more about ease, with a polished yet effortless collection. Twill stripes poured down silk shirts and cotton dresses, with loose ties bouncing along in the breeze. But keeping it chill doesn’t mean a lack of sexy femininity. Unbuttoned, corseted vests, slinky blouses, crystal-encrusted light knits and detailed patchwork all unearth that ‘profesh woman at her lovers’ vibe – very contemp.
Rag & Bone
The sporty trend is a New York game at heart, and Rag & Bone certainly plays it well. For SS14, the label put professional tailoring on the playing field. The Nineties sport look extends from the already trending buttonless Miami Vice suit jackets to cropped tops and satin dresses coyly covered by polka-dot and pleated sheer fabric. One staple is certainly the colourful, oversized cricket jumpers, which add a pop of bubblegum fun. Rag & Bone clearly shows the elevating shift: the irredescent silver that serves throughout the collection elevates the sporting trend from brews in the park to yummy mummy lunches on Park Ave.
From the Vuitton checkered brocades to the yellow Issey-style pleated skirts, you would think we had Derek Lam’s SS14 collection pegged. Not so. In usual Lam style, the collection puts deep-edged cuts on the platter: cropped tops attached to highwaisted skirts, hard diagonals unapologetically spreading across sleeves and chests, boxy dresses and trousers (the few trousers there are). The springy softness doesn’t reside in the rather hard silhoutte, but in the fabrics. Muted nudes, shiny and sparkling blacks, and pops of swinging-bright yellow put Derek Lam SS14 as a surprising summer staple.
Who says PVC and girly-girls mix? Prabal Gurung, that’s who. For Prabal Gurung, the SS14 agenda consists of rocker chicks crashing the debutante ball in bright, lollipop colours. The sheer plastic tent setting off the show provided an installation feel to his collection, which showcased succulent sheened satins in poppy colours, from baby green and cotton candy blue to saccharine pink and vibrant lilac. The theme? A futuristic take on Fifties and Sixties silhouttes – with low back, see-through PVC jackets and lots of ruffles, Gurung’s renown cuts were given the futuristic Disneyland treatment.
Words: Elise Marraro (follow Elise on Twitter @PardonMe_Lissie)