London’s calling card in the fashion industry has long been its role as a hub for fresh young talent, catapulting local names like Kane, Pilotto, Katrantzou and the like to global status. Seoul-born designer and London convert Eudon Choi seems next to head for the stratosphere.
Starting from the beginning, why did you choose London for your women’s wear education? It’s a far move from Seoul, after all.
I wanted to stretch myself and get a European perspective on fashion so I applied for the womenswear MA at the Royal College of Art and was lucky enough to get a place. I fell in love with London almost immediately and even while studying I knew I wanted to make it my home.
What do you think makes London such a nurturing place for up-and-coming designers?
London is the best place in the world to be for a young designer. There is some much talent, freedom to experiment, and support here. All of these things helped me get to where I am today.
Is there any pressure to stand out as a designer?
I don’t see myself competing with other designers because think I have a distinct point of view, nor do I see myself as the next this or the next that. I just continue to do what I do in evolving the Eudon Choi aesthetic.
And how would you characterize that aesthetic?
In a nutshell, it’s masculine yet feminine. I also stress a mix of fabrics and the exploration of textures.
Do any influences from your childhood or hometown come into play in your work?
Sometimes I see it in my work. For me, it’s all about the cut and engineering of a garment and the juxtaposing of textures, but I wouldn’t say that that is because I am Korean.
What about your background in menswear?
I focused on menswear initially because I could then just design the type of clothes that I wanted to wear. When I moved to womenswear, I think that those techniques really helped make the clothes wearable.
Would you ever be interested in adding a menswear branch to your label?
Never say never! I would love to design menswear again but for the moment, I want to focus on evolving and perfecting my women’s wear collections.
You made your LFW debut with your A/W 2010 collection. Would you say your point of view has changed since then?
I definitely have more confidence now that when I started. I started my label out of a desire to create things and to present my own personal aesthetic, but I never imagined that things would develop as they have!
Any lessons learned?
It is really important to have a strong sense of what you are doing and who you are so that the opinions of other people do not sway you.
Looking forward, what do you have in store for your brand?
Well, aside from expanding, I am working on two exciting collaborations at the moment, one with a major high-street brand. Unfortunately, I am sworn to secrecy so I can’t tell you anything more!
We know you’re keeping hush about A/W 2013. Perhaps you’re willing to dish to Wonderland even the smallest of hints for the upcoming season?
Well what can I say… One of my references is Doctor Zhivago, the 1965 film by David Lean. As for the rest, you will have to wait and see!
Words: Ricardo Hernandez