David Koma is a master of flaunting the female form. His AW12 collection yesterday stayed true to his signature disposition of contoured silhouettes but with a distinct air of seduction that has not been seen from the Koma woman before, which hardly surprised us considering Koma’s influence was drawn from Boldini’s portrayal of Marchesa Luisa Casti, who once claimed “I want to be a living work of art”.
Inspired also by the 60s appreciation of minimal detailing, looks were less fussy than Koma’s previous seasons. A multitude of LBDs with ensnaring cut out shapes, bustles drooping from the shoulders and leather paneling blossomed into a dresses with a flurry of colour, peplum and elaborate pleated hems. Stiff, high neck collars, in a rainbow of shades and glitter added masculinity to what would have otherwise been one of the most feminine collections we’ve seen this season.
Metallic ovals, carried through from the previous season were played an important role throughout the collection – they secured models’ hair in a low ponytail, embellished large patent belts and lined holes offering glimpses of colour that lay beneath.
Black and white leather boots with barely-there mesh cut down the sides and metal heels, which upon closer analysis transpired to be greyhounds stood to attention, were our most longed after footwear of the season.
Amalgamating metal ovals, glittery collars and art deco doesn’t sound particularly appealing, or wearable, but some how Koma managed to get the balance just right.
Words: Millie Cotton