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Nomad Spirit

Louise Trotter at Joseph has captured the essence of nomadic freedom by using salvaged military fabrics and shirting to create an elegantly upcycled collection. The signature trench coat was redefined in voluminous asymmetrical layers and thick sporty sweaters were sewn into trousers, the sleeves hanging about the waist. As always the tailoring was sharp, but became looser as the collection progressed, more dishevelled as if garments were being re-purposed over time.

School Spirit

Whilst the opening movement of the show was a soothing palette of earth tones – white, khaki and palest gold – there were gradual introductions of bold primary colours via fringing, like the fabric of a cheerleader’s pom-pom, which was used on hemlines in thick wads which made a pleasing swishing noise. Trotter has re-imagined a uniform for SS17, a sporty t-shirt here, a mackintosh there, but never in the places you expect.

Sporting Spirit

For sportswear enthusiasts – of which there are many – Joseph would not necessarily be the go-to brand, but given the increasing popularity of athletic apparel it seems that they too are beginning to adapt. Slightly more luxe than your average gym attire, Joseph’s fitted trackpants and contrast sweaters might not be what you’d actually choose to exercise in, but will go some way towards opening the brand out to a new audience.

Words: India Birgitta Jarvis

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Whether you’ve hung up this season’s most outrageous outfit or jumped on the next plane to Milan, the dust and glitter leftover from LFW is just beginning to settle. It’s unlikely that you’ll forget the best moments from the AW15 shows but we’ve listed our top seven just to make sure. You can thank us when you’re back from Paris.

Shouty Slogans

Ashley Williams was serving up truth with her patches. “Improve your image, be seen with me,” words anyone wearing the new collection can say wholeheartedly. Ashish’s “SEX” jumper will certainly sell, proving the saying true and Sophia Webster’s never-fail clutches were adorned with messages of “Touch my Clutch” and our favourite piece from her was the “Sexy Back” backpack. Simple, effective, cute.

Furry Friends

Obviously, for AW, fur was everywhere. Our favourites were of the patchwork variety at Ashish or on the hems of latex macs at Sibling (is there some sort of waiting list we need to be on for one of those btw?). The cutest was faux and worn on the Martian models at Shrimps, with their selection of fluff trimmed peep toes, striped coats and petal shaped clutches. Vibrantly coloured, utterly dreamy and probably softer than the real bunnies at Marcus Lupfer.

Street Walkers

Ashish made it ok for us to wear hooker boots, whether they’re PVC, lace-up, platformed, or all three. Over at Fyodor Golan they came in thigh-high baby pink patent styles, whilst Ed Marler took on a trashy tone too with his laced trousers and his models worked it in the highest energy show of the season with one of the best set designs and soundtracks too.

Boho is Back

Tassels and fringing galore were on show at Burberry and Temperley. Temperley luxed it up with jewel colours and sequins whereas Burberry stuck to the classic 70s earth tones, suede and florals. Topshop Unique also snuck into retro territory with au naturel hair, high necklines, shearling and the sweetest dandelion prints and embroidery, not to forget Paul Smith’s mustard shearling number, sure to be a favourite when autumn comes rolling in.

Gothic Girls

Vivienne Westwood always has something dark or devilish and this season was no exception with Rollacoaster cover girl Daisy Lowe taking to the catwalk in a hip hugging black lace gown, with scary almost industrial neck chains to up the ante. Giles was the real goth girl collection though with pieces straight out of a fairytale. Exaggerated bows, ruffs and dominatrix PVC gave the perfect balance between traditional and contemporary and black slick lips teamed with french plaited hair combined girlishness and witch-chic.

Pretty in Pink

It’s a tried, old and untrue stereotype that’s blue’s for boys and pink’s for girls but you would have taken it as gospel at LFW. Every shade of blush, petal, peach, magenta and even Pepto Bismol was on show just about everywhere. House of Holland, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and Sibling skirted around the saccharine with PVC and latex infused collections whereas Molly Goddard embraced the fluff and frills of the colour with her dreamy fairytale tulle creations.

One of the Boys

No nonsense was had at Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, Belstaff or Joseph. Clean lines, wintry colour palettes and heavy focus on shirts, coats and tailoring at all three brands made a more masculine trio of collections. Loose cuts at Paul Smith will make everything look like you borrowed it from your boyfriend or your brother, in a good way, that is.

Words: Lily Walker

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Intricate simplicity

Joseph SS15 was lesson in the art of intricate simplicity. With a subdued colour palette of monochrome, khaki, beige and denim, it was the finer details that stood out. Sheer pleats, funnel neck-lines, patchworked denim, flesh exposing sheer panels worked into knitwear, leather granddad collars and oversized slouchy hoods. This season the Joseph girl is part of a new puritan cult and this is her uniform.

Sport-Geisha

Drawing reference from both the wearability and functionality of urban sportswear coupled with the purity, patterns and complex, twisted shapes of Japanese origami, Joseph’s SS15 collection screamed Geisha girl streets it up and throws on a pair of platform sliders while she’s at it.

Masculine femininity

With wrapped silhouettes, oversized Kimono style outerwear, leather tunics, denim robes and culottes in the mix masculinity was the language of choice, yet femininity spoke volumes throughout. By wearing slouchy androgynous outerwear hung off one shoulder and knitwear that exposed plenty of flesh, androgyny and sass were added in equal measures.

Photographs: Anabel Navarro Llorens

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