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A collection of almost entirely flannel pieces doesn’t initially sound promising but this is Giorgio Armani, it’s inevitably
going to turn out right. And so it did. His latest collection entitled ‘Fade to Grey’ featured all colours of the grey spectrum from white to black and everything in between. It wasn’t all drab though, as Armani threw in dramatic flashes of lime green here there and everywhere. It shouldn’t work but it really did.

Like the latest mens collection, the silhouette was softened, ankle-length slim-fit trousers had pleats that softened the front, jackets were rounded and re-proportioned. Forms expressed a new concept of individuality, comfort, sense of colour and processing of materials.

The flannel which made a frequent appearance was softened and treated until it became nearly impalpable, similar to tulle, making it perfect for evening wear which was adorned with exquisite embroidery. Flannel also made an appearance on the accessories the boots and army boots that complemented trousers and the soft shorts that resembled skirts. The collection was all about a liberation from constrictions and rules and every detail emphasised that perfectly.

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Many moons ago back in the 1970’s Armani jackets and coats were rigid with large powerful shoulders; AW14 marks a change to the Armani way of dressing. Jackets are evolving to become softer and more form fitting, much like the classic cardigan; hugging the male torso with raglan shoulders and sculpted torsos, so you’ve got till next winter to build up those shoulders boys. Armani describes it as an ‘athletic silhouette with a spirit of sobriety’.

Trousers were mostly kept straight and fitted also although as the collection progressed the silhouette was loosened, with some trousers resembling jogging bottoms, reaffirming the athletic feel without pushing sportswear too strongly, keeping the cuts elegant and polished.

The colour palette of dark sand, blue, brown and black against contrasting white shirts completed the sophisticated, contemporary feel. Knitwear was sophisticated in Indian-inspired tones of burgundy, jade green and mauve, with some cardigans cut like biker jackets and jumpers in crew neck and roll neck. Although some prints are used the overall feel is clean and considered. The looks were finished with leather gloves, cross-body messenger bags and satchels; Armani’s new way of dressing is current, youthful and modern.

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Youthful experimentation can easily become an overdone cliche. But when wiser and more prominent fashion houses like Emporio Armani turn to experimentation, it’s truly a thing to celebrate. Unlike the beautiful but classically-rendered collections of the their past, Emporio Armani’s AW’13 collection, dubbed Kajal, combines the lasting trends of past eras, such as 1920’s bowler hats and deep Deco cuts, with thoroughly modern globalisation.

The silhouettes are long and simple, but the roughly hewn fabrics and playful accessories bring in the experimental edge. Soft pink trousers paired with a grey pea coat harken the androgynous style of fashionable West End gamine girls. A decadent scarlet velvet dress with emphasised, sculptural hips calls upon Moroccan autumns, while sky-blue mohair trousers are relaxed enough for a stroll through San Francisco’s bay area. This season, the Armani girl is both new and nostalgic- she might be a spur-of-the-moment jet setter, but she’s still a lover of the classics.

Words: Elise Marraro

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