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Destruction and Repair

Close to Christopher Kane’s heart and largely autobiographical, as in other seasons, the SS16 Crash and Repair collection focuses on the designer and his sister, Tammy, through a certain turbulent period in their lives. It looks into the cyclical process of damage and repair – the way that we go through a certain troubling and psychological pressing time in our lives to then pick up the pieces and build something new out of it. The collection draws upon this psychological damage and reproduces it in the material sense – “there is the idea of creating coming from that destruction, that repair making something new”. It’s one of those things that struck a chord in the audience’s perception of the collection, and because we can all relate to the hardships that life sometimes brings, Crash and Repair becomes symbolically significant this week.

New Primitivism

If using painful experiences and restructuring them into something more meaningful and beautiful was on Christopher’s mind when he designed this collection then Wonderland isn’t surprised that he has also implemented elements of New Primitivism this season. John Chamberlain’s ‘car crash’ sculptures help illuminate the stream-of-consciousness feel to the collection, with themes being revisited in very dreamlike and subconscious ways. It balanced metamorphosing bacterial blobs and x-ray scan garments, and then some lace garments that echoed fractures and crashes. Kane wanted “childlike and honest” and this is exactly what he produced – a season of untouched and untainted pieces that come together at the end.

There are no rules to Fashion

Yes the Christopher Kane runway girl has seen way too much in life and she might not be an insider to the nature of fashion, but she still means a lot. She represents individuality and freedom, a kind of unfaltering sense of dedication to the outsider experience that has shaped her to such a large extent. Disruption and decoration come hand in hand and dichotomies such as these make us question the standards and rules of life. Fake or real, structured or disorientated, jelly or plastic, nothing stopped Kane from presenting his experiences in the most genuine and honest way this season.

Words: Marianna Mukhametzyanova

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Age: 22

Hometown: Melbourne, Australia & hopefully here soon!

I was scouted: In Melbourne when I was 20 I was working at a hair salon, an agent saw me & asked me to lunch. When she realised I was only 5’4 she didn’t mind. A few months later everything went mentally busy!

Favourite childhood memory: Walking to Kindergarden with my grandma every morning.

Hobbies: Hanging out with my mates, going for walks, sitting in coffee shops & reading my books. I also like watching documentaries.

Pets: I have a dog called Lurchie. I like dressing her up in different outfits. She has t-shirts, a monster outfit & a pudding hat for Christmas time. My boyfriend isn’t happy about it but she loves it!

Favourite London hang out: East London where all my friends live.

Current Obsession: Sunshine

Fear: Spiders, the ocean & dolphins

Guilty pleasure: Eating ice cream in bed every night. I love cookies & cream.

Favourite place in the world: I don’t think I have one yet, I still have a lot of travelling & exploring to do!

Dream destination: South Africa & Iceland

Favourite food: Hot chips

Dream dinner date: Snoop Lion (aka Snoop Dogg) because he is sick. We would sit around chilling & listening to reggae. I want to be Anja Lion!

Favourite movie: Candy

Least favourite movie: Action films

Favourite cartoon: As a kid it was definitely Tom & Jerry

First gig: It was something stupid like Big Day Out (a massive festival in Melbourne) when I was 15.

I’m currently listening to: Anything & everything. I always listen to my i-pod on shuffle.

Most treasured possession: My polaroid camera, I carry it around everywhere.

Dream job: After modelling I would like to work in a job that helps people dealing with traumas. It’s funny because I had my cards read recently & they said I was a nurse in a past life working with people during the war.

Last thing I bought: Something boring like lunch

Career highlight so far: Working with Terry Richardson as it was one thing I really wanted to do. He’s really cool, chilled, interesting & funny. I love that he’s still really passionate about taking photos & his studio/ team are cool. There is Terry stuff everywhere!

Future plans: I would love to continue this adventure for a few more years, really travel & see the world then I want to be a Mamma.

Myself in three words: Free spirit, indecisive & adventurous

If I could have one wish: Learn to fly

Photographer: Daniel Nadel, shot on film using ILFORD XP2 SUPER 400
Fashion Editor and words: Francesca Prudente
Hair & Make Up: Emily Mergaert using JURLIQUE SKINCARE & MAKE UP BY MAC COSMETICS
Model: Anja Konstantinova at MODELS 1
Anja wears dress from CHRISTOPHER KANE

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Sequins and studs are no longer constricted to nighttime debauchery. This season, sparkling clusters and metallic sheens meant for daytime revelry prevailed at Burberry and Jonathan Saunders. Along with diamond whites, SS13 revels in jewel tones – fiery reds, sapphire blues, deep purples and emerald greens. So remember the rule of summer: the shinier, the better.

Designers to follow: Burberry, Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha, Fendi, Alexander Wang

It’s time to get in touch with your untapped subconscious, because psychedelia was all over the spring/summer runway. House of Holland released a glamorous but daring collection full of hallucinogenic yellows, peace-loving purples and acid greens, while Mary Katrantzou and Holly Fulton concentrated on abstracted, Pollock-like patterns. Ditch your inner wallflower, because this trend is loud and proud.

Designers to follow: House of Holland, Mary Katrantzou, Holly Fulton, Proenza Schouler, Peter Pilotto

For the indispensable key item for this season, may we suggest the biker or bomber jacket? These jackets toughen traditionally sweet and feminine looks, plus they’ll keep you toasty in the typically freezing English springtime. Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane provide sporty, relaxed bombers while Versus biker jackets will release the beach babe badass in you.

Designers to follow: Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane, Antipodium, Versus, Daks

Of course it wouldn’t be spring without floral prints bloomin’ everywhere. But these aren’t your Grandma-on-Easter-Sunday florals; these are floral prints on acid. Vibrant colours and intricate motifs cascade down skirts at Dior, on trousers at Erdem, and on the heads of Vivienne Westwood models. But it’s not just flowers on display; garden critters litter the fashion landscape, from snakeskin to bird motifs. So take a risk on one of the most traditional spring trends in fashion; we promise you won’t be disappointed.

Designers to follow: Vivienne Westwood, Erdem, Christian Dior, Valentino, Kinder Aggugini

Don’t worry if colourful prints and metallics aren’t your thing – another runway trend is monochrome. Black and white pairings dominated the runways of Louis Vuitton, Acne, and Chanel. But this trend is anything but boring; in fact, instead of blending with the bushes or graffiti, monochrome is the standout trend here, appearing as stripes and standout checks.

Designers to follow: Acne, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Balenciaga, Eudon Choi

When we long for warm, summer days (particularly with the recent, sub-zero weather forecast), we usually envision the bare midriffs and over classic nineties coming-of-age film. Luckily, the SS13 trend of nineties sport plays perfectly to our idea of a casual summer. Topshop Unique, JW Anderson and others reveled in nineties nostalgia, from oversized cloth jumpers, neon jersey and grunge-inspired mesh jackets. So dust off those old dungarees: the nineties is, like, totally back.

Designers to follow: Topshop Unique, Ashish, JW Anderson, Richard Nicoll, Antonio Berardi

Girly to gamine is the theme of spring and summer fashion. From Michael Kors to Stella McCartney, designers mixed feminine, whimsical looks with straight-edged, androgynous cuts, allowing for day-to-day role-play. Whether you mix tea dresses with biker jackets or tailored suits with bare-midriffs, shake up those conformist gender norms, because this season it’s all about exploring the layers of modern womanhood.

Designers to follow: Michael Kors, Lacoste. Acne, Stella McCartney, Thomas Tait

Words: Elise Marraro (follow Elise on Twitter: PardonMe_Lissie)

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Age: 17

Hometown: Liverpool but I’ve lived in Marbella, Spain for 14 years.

I was scouted: Two years ago, my boyfriend’s mum asked if I was a model and said she knew someone at Models 1 in Spain so organised a meeting for me.

Home is: Spain, I think it always will be.

Favourite childhood memory: When my Dad was alive he bought my mum a speed boat and every Sunday we would sit on the boat, listen to Elvis and he would help me with my homework. Definitely the best time of my life.

Dream destination: I would absolutely love to go to Australia.

My hobbies are: Hanging out with my friends as I don’t get a chance to do that much anymore. When I’m home I like to go shopping and treat my mum.

My current obsession is: Trainers and fun rings.

My biggest fear is: Having my heart broken and losing my mum as she really is my best friend.

Guilty pleasure: The Disney channel and Hannah Montana.

Favourite film: Toy Story (the first one). It never gets old.

Last lie I told: That I was 20 years old.

Favourite food: Proper American diner food & bacon!

Dream dinner date: Elvis.

Favourite London hang out: Camden, it’s such a cool area.

First gig: My boyfriend’s band Midnight State. I threw my bra at him!

Music I like: Pretty much everything but mainly indie, dubstep and old stuff like Elvis.

Career highlight: Getting the Marc Jacobs show last season and then from that getting Louis Vuitton without even having to go for a casting. I was so nervous at those shows, all I could see were bright lights and I couldn’t feel my arms as I walked. After I had such an adrenaline rush.

Most treasured possession: My St Christopher pendant my Dad gave me when I was 8, I never take it off. He said I’d travel the world and he was right.

Last thing I bought: My Boy London sweater, it’s great now it’s so cold!

Happiest moment: Going back to school & showing everyone my portfolio. I always got told I wouldn’t go anywhere so it was the best feeling to prove them wrong.

Myself in three words: Energetic, loving and annoying.

Dream job: This is it.

Photographer David Adams
Fashion Editor and words Francesca Prudente
Make Up Lara Himpelmann using DERMALOGICA
Hair Kazuki Fujiwara using L’OREAL
Model Hollie-May Saker at MODELS 1
Hollie-May wears floral print t-shirt & jacket by CHRISTOPHER KANE

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