Easy Riders Raging Bulls

“My dad rode saddle bronc, so I ride saddle bronc”. Rodeo is more than a heritage or a means to bond a community. Its stetsons and blue jeans are at the heart of the american image, its frontier spirit as inherent to the american way as life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. One-time rodeo queen Lee Wallick takes stock of the characters behind the bucking and riding of her local rodeo

You can tell a lot from a license plate in Wyoming. First and foremost there’s the iconic silhouette of a bucking bronco and rider waving his hat high above his head with one arm and hanging on for dear life with the other. It’s a symbol for the bygone days of the Western ranching way of life. But not only is this image the federal and state registered trademark. It represents the state’s official sport: rodeo. It’s a sport that, each summer, becomes the social and community focal point event for communities across North America.

In a general sense rodeo evolved from the practices surrounding cattle herding. When exactly it became an official event is less clear. Some (the Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association, or PRCA) say the rodeo was born on July 4, 1869 when two groups of cowboys from neighbouring ranches met in Deer Tail, CO, to settle an argument over who was the best at performing everyday ranching tasks. Others (Mary Lou LeCompte, writing in the Journal of Sport History) say it grew out of the practices of Spanish ranchers and their Mexican ranch hands, ‘vaqueros’ - a mixture of cattle wrangling and bull fighting dating back to the 16th century conquistadors which later spread throughout the Kingdom of New Spain through fiestas and festivals in what is now America’s southwest. Then again, the ancient Minoans of Crete partook also in some of the main events: bull riding and steer wrestling.

It’s mid-July, the height of the summer, or more commonly known as ‘rodeo season’ around these parts. We’re stood in a dusty, deserted parking lot. On one side of the fairgrounds is a dormant carnival waiting to wake at sunset. The concrete stands echo with emptiness as a lone caretaker picks up rogue bits of litter. Even the animals scattered about look bored. It’s all just one tumbleweed short of a Western movie set. As you turn towards where the action will take place come 5 o’clock, there’s a giant, bright red Budweiser tent filled with their prized Clydesdales in front of a grouping of giant tepees.

The tepees are a throwback to this particular rodeo’s foundation. “The Sheridan WYO Rodeo emerged from its war-time cocoon as the ‘Bots Sots Stampede’ - a local rodeo for working cowboys,” says Tom Ringly, the Sheridan WYO-Rodeo historian and organizer. “In 1914, 1915 and 1916 there had been a series of rodeos called the Sheridan Stampede and the theme of the rodeos was Bot Sots. And in the Crow Indian language that’s a positive. It means ‘heap good’...”

But what’s most interesting is how these tepees and their more modern day marketing counterparts, the Budweiser Clydesdales, make up an appropriation of culture for the sake of myth maintenance, when in fact what lies inside the gates - the horses, the cattle, the cowboys and girls milling about - is doing a pretty darn good job on its own. If anything, the rodeo today is all about keeping a myth alive: the myth of the Wild West, of pioneering on the frontier. It’s the myth of solid values and traditions that would be in danger of extinction were it not for the rodeo.

When asked about why we should still have the rodeo today when fewer people are actually ranching, bull rider/biologist Waylon R. Hiler of Colorado Springs, who incidentally is nursing a broken shoulder after a recent ride, says, “it’s about bringing communities together by putting on a show for them.” The rodeo acts like a circus, moving from town to town. But it is more sincere and genuine in its message. The contestants move from one town to the next like the herds they once would have reared. Man and beast have undergone role reversal.

They travel in one, twos, threes or families by car, truck, custom-built trailer or plane - but not typically by horse. The ropers do tend to travel with their horses as their working relationship is greatest - bronc-riders, in contrast, draw a ‘bronc’ at random a week before the event. The rough stockers are lighter on their feet in terms of equipment so they tend to travel in pairs, often racking up three to six rodeos in a week. The barrel racers are often married or dating the cowboys - and the buckle bunnies are the groupies that try to lure them away in the bars at night. You sleep with the buckle bunnies. But you marry a barrel racer.

On the grand scale of rodeos the Sheridan WYO-Rodeo is at the smaller end of the spectrum. Cheyenne Wyoming’s Frontier Days, which began in 1897, is the most significant annual community celebration while the Canadian Calgary Stampede and Las Vegas, Nevada attract the big boys of rodeo, especially in terms of the kind of bucks they can take to the bank. The latter is where the modern professional rodeo circuit concludes with the PRCA Wrangler National Finals Rodeo in December.

Along struts Miss Rodeo Wyoming, Crystal Rivers in her carefully colour co-ordinated turquoise ensemble, gobstopper jewellery, tiara laden cowboy hat, the prized diamante belt buckle and, of course, the sash proclaiming her reign. It’s also safe to say she’s not afraid of the make-up aisle, hairspray and tan in a can

Levels of professionalism are changing too. The modern-day rodeo existence rolls up in an impressive, shiny white rig - the big truck variety rather than the kind used by the bareback riders. ‘Alex Cripps professional steer wrestler’ and ‘JKR excavating ltd’ are scrolled down the side, along with the details of his hometown of Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada. But what it doesn’t mention is that while he might be a 6’3, 285lb ‘bulldogger’ during the rodeo season, he’s also a junior high school substitute teacher.

The cheques might be why a lot of them do it. But rodeo simply doesn’t bring in the kind of money other professional sports do, which is why most participants have second incomes. The tiny top tier of rodeo-ers can earn upwards of a million dollars in their career, but these are few and far between. Trevor Brazile, the current all-rounder, from Amarillo, Texas, has earned $2,182,555 to date. In 2006 he became the youngest PRCA cowboy at the age of 30 and only the seventh overall to cross the $2 million mark in career earnings. Rusty Allen, current point leader for saddlebronc, is at $501,016, with his win at this year’s RodeoHouston Super Series Championship alone netting him $50,000. And the world champion bull rider B.J. Shumacher, from Hillsboro, Wisconsin has won $726,525. But for every one of these guys there are at least 20 more who make a pittance.

Despite the fact that ranching, like farming, is somewhat of a dying existence a lot of the cowboys are ranchers, but there are also horse trainers, hunting guides, welders, carpenters, medical students and even an investment advisor. But it’s rodeo they save their passion for. Tanner Milan, a steer wrestler by rodeo, the rest of the time a heavy equipment operator, says, “I wouldn’t really call it my job. It’s just something I do when I’m not rodeoing.” And then there’s Kyle Thompson, a 29-year-old steer wrestler, who in addition to ranching, rodeo and carpentry is a stunt man.

But if Cripps’ set-up was impressive, in pulls KC Jones’ ‘Mean Green’ Freightliner, towing a 32 ft. 5 horse trailer with deluxe living quarters and sponsorship by the Las Vegas Mirage. He’s a World Champion steer wrestler who rodeos with Rolling Thunder Conversions. Or so we’re told by what’s written below the billboard-sized image of a woman lounging by the pool in her black bikini, cowboy hat and boots, with a cosmo in hand. It’s all rather Siegfried and Roy. But it’s also a reminder that rodeo is a sport and where there is sport, there is a marketing opportunity. Jones’ even goes so far as to list everything from the type of oil (Rotella) he uses to where he shops (Hadley’s Western Wear, Canon City, CO) to what he eats (Allsup’s Bean and Beef Burrito), and where he might eat it (Chipotle, On the Border, Salt Grass Steakhouse, Wendy’s, Whataburger, with a Coke or Diet Dr. Pepper). And he kindly invites anyone interested in sponsoring or having him endorse their products to get in touch. Apparently, his hat choice is up for bids.

Almost on cue, along struts Miss Rodeo Wyoming, Crystal Rivers in her carefully colour co-ordinated turquoise ensemble, gobstopper jewellery, tiara laden cowboy hat, the prized diamante belt buckle and, of course, the sash proclaiming her reign. It’s also safe to say she’s not afraid of the make-up aisle, hairspray and tan in a can. The official Miss Rodeo Wyoming spiel states that her role “symbolizes the youth of our state who wish to further promote the sport of professional rodeo and the great western way of life. Miss Rodeo Wyoming is the ideal western-type American girl who represents her state, believes in our western heritage and works hard in promoting these values during her travels. While spreading good will for her community, her state and the sport of rodeo, Miss Rodeo Wyoming garners experiences that lay a solid foundation for her future [she gets a scholarship].”

And with hair like that, she must know a trick or two. Before World War II, indeed, trick riding and roping was one of the most popular rodeo events: think throwing shapes with lassos, hanging upside down from a galloping horse and shooting balloons while riding around the arena. And in keeping with traditions, behind the bull and bronc corals a uniquely customized pick-up truck-trailer-caravan, complete with aquarium, comes into view. It’s The Kiesner Family - “the most unique western family act touring the nation and abroad today,” says their promotional material. “When Phillip and Julie gave their son Rider a Will Rogers trick roping kit for Christmas, when he was just nine years old, they had no idea how the future would unfold. Be ready to be amazed at the showmanship and artistry when Rider performs the butterfly, pop-overs, in and outs, spoke hops, the Texas skip, a 50-foot wedding ring, and many other fascinating rope tricks...”

The youngest of the bunch, Roper, is blowing up 13 pink balloons for the evening’s performance when he stops for breath and tells of how he spends every day of the year on the road and basically took on his riding role because the family had to find something for him to do. At least, doing this, he’s not about to be trampled by a bull.

The actual rodeo breaks down into three areas: timed events, roping and rough stock. The timed events include barrel racing and steer wrestling, a.k.a ‘bulldogging’. Barrel racing is fairly self-explanatory: women race as fast as they can in a figure eight pattern around a set of empty barrels in the arena in the shortest amount of time. Steer wrestling it isn’t: this is where a rider jumps off his horse onto a steer and ‘wrestles’ it to the ground by grabbing it by the horns. Some reckon bulldogging is the most physically dangerous event in rodeo for the cowboy, who not only jumps off a galloping horse head first but also runs the risk of having the steer land on top of him horns first. Then again, shock and awe factor is a compulsory element of the rodeo.

The next area, roping, is probably the closest to actual working ranch activities such as branding or having to separate an animal from the herd. Tie-down roping is where a calf is roped around the neck by a ‘lariat’ or what most of us might call a lasso. The horse (which acts as the Robin to the cowboy’s Batman) stops and steps back against the rope while the cowboy hops off, runs to the calf, throws it to the ground and ties three feet together. And in team roping, there’s a ‘header’ and a ‘healer’ who compete together. The header surprisingly lassos the running steer’s horns, while the heeler lassos its hind legs. Then they join up to ‘lightly pull’ the feet from under the animal. The final roping event is breakaway roping. It’s a calf or steer roping where a very short lariat is tied lightly to the saddle horn with string and a flag. When the calf is roped, the horse stops, allowing the calf to run on, flagging the end of time when the string and flag breaks from the saddle.

The final and most high profile event is the rough stock portion of the evening. This is your bronc-ing bucks and bulls. Bronc riding breaks down into bareback, where the rider is only allowed to hang onto a bucking horse with a ‘surcingle’ - a strap that fastens around the horse’s girth. It’s what they refer to as their ‘rig’, because the likelihood of hearing a bareback rider talk about his ‘surcingle’ is about that of hearing him discuss catwalk trends. Rodeo, after all, is a very macho event. And the riders like to keep it that way. Saddle bronc riding is where the rider has a special hornless saddle - to keep his tackle intact - and can hang onto a heavy lead rope attached to a halter if he so chooses. It’s a long way from bull-riding. Bulls are unpredictable and really don’t care who or what you are if you happen to be within sight.

Lastly is the Kiesner Family-style entertainments - throwbacks to William F. Cody, a man better known as Buffalo Bill. Without Cody rodeo wouldn’t exist as we know it today. He created the first major rodeo and the first Wild West show in North Platte, Nebraska in 1882. On the success of it he then organized his touring and lucrative Wild West show, which left other entrepreneurs to create what became professional rodeo. The two coexisted, often sharing many of the same participants, while also making the most of the enduring allure of the mythic West. Six guns lead to balancing books.

The crowds from near and far fill the stands while the contestants ready themselves... Then it’s time for a prayer... Every single person, and especially the bareback riders who are getting ready to ride, bows their head. It is a moment to behold. But just a moment. The announcer shifts gears to shout: “It’s rodeo time!”

The crowds from near and far fill the stands while the contestants ready themselves when the announcer comes on with his “I am an American” speech. It’s as loud, proud and about as patriotic as it gets. The music kicks in with an I Believe in America song, half Hank Williams Jr., half beer commercial. As he continues, an endless parade of sponsors flags, from Purina to the local college, each stuck down into special boot holsters, are ridden round the arena. Then it’s time for a prayer - one suitable to an event of controlled violence and excess beer, in which the announcer asks God to “bless this event and help us celebrate in a way you deem appropriate...” Every single person, and especially the bareback riders who are getting ready to ride, bows their head. It is a moment to behold. But just a moment. The announcer shifts gears to shout: “It’s rodeo time!” There’s not quite a ‘yeehaw’ but the spirit is there.

The music is cranked up and out flies the first rider. Most riders are in their early twenties and have taken in up in their daddy’s foot-steps. “My dad rode saddlebronc so I ride saddlebronc.” So says Blaze Hamaker, 19, from Laramie, Wyoming, sitting on the wooden platform behind the chutes spitting the remnants of his Copenhagen chewing tobacco into the dirt. It’s as simple as that. He then goes on to tell of how July hasn’t been so good because of the horses he’s drawn. A week before the rodeo each rider draws a horse, typically 12 horses a night over three nights. The horses (and bulls) are supplied by which-ever rough stock provider has the contract for that rodeo. Kesler’s Bell Star, he says, is the horse he doesn’t want to get. He can’t say why. It’s a feeling.

Most people think rodeo animals are wild, particularly the horses. But they are more often specifically bred as bucking stock, much like race horses are bred to race. At this rodeo Ike Sankey of Sankey Rodeo Company has the contract. Once the horses or bulls are loaded into the chutes, the divider gate goes down between them and there they wait until the cowboy climbs on. The saddlebronc riders use a long metal coat hanger-like wire to fasten the girth and manoeuver objects around the horse. And generally they wait fairly patiently although one or two will get to bucking and can seriously injure themselves or get flipped around in such a tight space. As the rider gets on there are at least eight people buzzing around the activity, like a race car in a pitstop. Many steadiers, a couple of cameramen for the close-ups being projected on the JM Davidson-sponsored Jumbotron are among them. And then there’s Sankey at the middle. He’s the one that says ‘go’.

In the business for over 29 years, Sankey knows why we still have the rodeo. “It is a way to preserve and perpetuate our Western lifestyle,” he says. “It connects urban people to the rural way of life. It is also great entertainment and a window into a wonderful piece of America.”

If a brief one. For just eight seconds the rider tries to stay on the animal while he bucks, twists, turns, bends and generally makes every attempt to get him off. Both the rider and the horse or bull are awarded points out of 100. It’s the combined ride that gets the score. The more difficult the animal makes it for the rider to stay on, the more points he earns. So it goes from from bareback to saddlebronc to bull riding.

By now the air is thick with dust. As soon as one rider is bucked off he’s back helping out the next guy. There’s a true comaraderie amongst them. Cody DeMers, 29, of Kimberly, Idaho has been pro rodeo for 10 years. “We are competing against the horse, not each other,” he explains. But he also admits they are all after the same cheques. “I want to make my retirement to invest in land, cattle and horses,” he says. “I don’t have a back up plan because to have one is to have doubt in yourself and I want to stay positive. You don’t get paid when you’re injured.” But outside of the financial aspect, why rodeo? “Rodeo teaches us a lifestyle this country was founded on,” he says. “There’s no other sport like it.”