Riccardo Tisci looked to both the mountains and the sea, for his A/W10-11 collection. Knits including a modern Fair Isle twisted pattern (for the mountains), and neoprene trousers with scuba details: oversized zips and folded over waistbands (for the sea), were sent out together.
Save some sporadic splashes of red tones, the colour palette was kept stark - whites, blacks and beige.
Short shifts came in leather and lace and outerwear was tailored and oversized.
Riccardo Tisci looked at iconic moments and figures of the 1970s erotic French cinema; and photography by Guy Bourdin and Helmut newton, for his Couture show, this week.
These references were translated into a mix of sensual feminine and masculine tailoring.
Make-up by Serge Lutens and Italian glam-rock pioneer Renato Zero was dramatic.
Riccardo Tisci’s looked to his fascination with religious faith for his fourth Givenchy menswear collection: inspirations of churchly uniforms, were seen, and - more obviously - a T Shirt emblazoned ‘God is Lord.’ There were also hints of street wear influences and, of course, some great tailoring. The colours were generally kept black and white - until he sent out his signature bermuda short; a gold over-sized ‘Crown-of-Thorn’ necklace appeared for the first time; and monk sandals came in velvet, crocodile and sting ray. Sting ray is the new python.
Day three - Sunday 4th October….
Karl Lagerfeld - Show started at 10.38am
Show Invitation
Emanuel Ungaro - (show started at 1.46pm)
I was quite intrigued to see what this seasons collection would be like from the house of Ungaro, mainly because they had recently appointed Lindsey Lohan as there “artistic advisor”??!!
The more successful pieces of the collection were pretty much as expected, super tight body con dresses with micro minis and lots of bright colours and sequins. Not my favourite show this week but definitely not my least favourite either. At least Lohan’s finale entrance made me smile…..??!!??
Is that Leslie Ash?
Hussein Chaylan - Show started at 3.40pm
Show Invitation
Front Row: Rhianna (again!! - this time in glasses looking very intelligent!-not!!)
There was a live orchestra at the foot of the runway for Husseins show this season with the conductor (Hussein - with a rather fetching tash!) standing on a platform in the middle.
This season wasn’t my favourite Hussein show but the looks i did like were amazing! The huge hats with cut out visors and pointed chest pieces gave a strong silhouette and had eerie feel to them which I loved. Some girls looked as though they had walked straight off a 1940’s cruise ship and then been transported onto a Terry Gilliam Sci-fi movie set.
Dries Van Noten - Show started at 4.39pm
I haven’t been to a Dries Van Noten show for a few season so I was really looking forward to seeing his latest collection. His prints and fabrics are always spectaculair and this season was no different. I particularly liked the wrap skirts and soft tailoring on jackets and shirts.
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci - Show started at 7pm
There had definitely been a shortage of all the big girls so far in Paris and after seeing the Givenchy show I could see why, the house must have been holding first show exclusives on many of them. The bleached out brows and pale muddy complexion created a hard powerful look seems to be a signature of Tisci. I absloutly loved all the geometric prints and rosette mini kilts, the sharp tailoring was really strong too.
Favorite girl of the show: Kirsty Hume
Sonia Rykiel - Show started at 9.38pm
Even though the Sonia Rykiel show was at the end of a very long day there was enough energy and excitement at her Saint Germain shop to life anybodies spirits. You may always know what your going to get regarding the collection but what the models get up to is anybody’s guess. This season the all had Disco fever!! Sasha P was my firm favourite yet again………
To end my day I had dinner at the 404 restaurant with New York super agent Tim Howard and Wonderlands beauty editors Neil Moodie and Lisa Butler (who looked amazing in a black Balenicaga dress). I also had the pleasure of meeting the manicurist mistress Sophy Robson who had a rather fetching set of nails on herself! Daltson market never fails!!
There’s nothing more irritating than spending a fortune on a designer piece, only for you to wake up the next day and discover your very expensive garment is ‘so last season’. Well Riccardo Tisci, the tour de force behind Givenchy, may be your knight in shining armour.
Tisci’s new capsule collection, Givenchy REDUX, takes the fashion house’s iconic pieces and design motifs to create the premier collection, consisting of individual garments which are free from any given season or trend. The idea is that they are collectibles that will never go out of style, and will serve as timeless wardrobe staples. The first instalment is based on two themes; the ‘romantic white blouse’ and ‘studs’, both of which have been hugely distinctive in the House of Givenchy.
The collection will be shown twice a year with the pre-collections, and premiers in stores in October.
This is a partnership to love - the brilliant and talented Antony Hegarty of ‘Antony and the Johnsons’, and chic French Haute Couture house, Givenchy. Antony chose Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci to fit his get-up for the French leg of the group’s tour. “I was so excited by this collaboration,’ said Riccardo, ‘I have so much respect for Antony and his incredible universe.” And the feeling is mutual: “The craftsmanship and delicate attention to detail is completely astounding,” replys Antony. Gorgeous. And he looks a dream!
