Describing a perfume is one of those tasks that isn’t easy to gauge. For Zadig & Voltaire, words like ‘sweet’ and ‘woody’ feel too simplistic — they would rather take you on an olfactive trip through the bold, lively, and at times rebellious Parisian nights. To create their latest offerings in the fragrant world, the French Maison sourced inspiration from the vibrant shadows and metallic brilliance of the French capital, a feeling that’s beautifully and powerfully translated into two fragrances: This Is Really Her! and This Is Really Him!.

They’re defiant, bold, and striking signature scents, the most intense of their portfolio to date, created to be worn around the clock, from dusk to dawn. Here, we connect with the perfumers behind This Is Really Her! and This Is Really Him!, Sidonie Lancesseur and Nathalie Lorson, to discuss creative processes and inspirations, and get insider tips on how to make your fragrance last through a whole night of celebrations. Keep scrolling…

You’ve been part of the THIS IS! adventure from the outset. What’s the secret to writing the next chapter in the olfactory history of THIS IS!, which is currently an emblematic point of reference in perfumery. Is it a perilous challenge, or a creative foregone conclusion?
It’s both a creative and a perilous challenge. The secret is to preserve the emblematic DNA of THIS IS! while at the same time being creative enough to come up with a new version that is in line with the values of the house and today’s perfumery.

The ideal fragrance envelops the wearer’s skin, like a perfectly cut garment. Generally speaking, do you think there are many parallels between fashion and perfume?
There are many different parallels between fashion and perfume. Both have to do with art. They both involve a similar creative process. A central ingredient is often the starting point for my olfactory compositions. In the same way, I think you could design a garment by starting with the choice of fabric. As for what perfume represents, like fashion, it’s a way of asserting one’s personality and fully expressing one’s identity.

And more specifically, what are the Zadig & Voltaire fashion codes found in THIS IS REALLY HER!?
In THIS IS REALLY HER! we find various emblematic elements of Zadig&Voltaire. In this latest creation, the rhinestone and metallic aspect is illustrated by a rose with intense, complex shades. We also find this notion of ‘no limits’ present in fashion, thanks to a play of day/night contrasts.

What was your creative process in developing the formula for THIS IS REALLY HER!?
For THIS IS REALLY HER! Eau de Parfum Intense pour elle, we wanted to develop an intense fragrance. This intensity is expressed through the development of a very special, rich and contrasting rose. Turkish Damascena rose absolute adds complexity and depth to the original note. What’s more, this rose is embellished with disruptive, powerful metallic nuances that are the hallmark of THIS IS REALLY HER! The intensity is also enhanced by the addition of long-lasting, diffusive base notes. On the one hand, patchouli adds amplitude to the fragrance with its vibrant woody notes. And on the other, labdanum enhances the amber facet of the sandalwood accord.

From day to night. From night to day. How do you inject this different luminosity, like an olfactory chiaroscuro, into a fragrance?
To inject this chiaroscuro effect into the fragrance, I played the contrast card at every level. In the top note, I counterbalanced the sparkle of the pink berry and the spiciness of the pink basil notes with a deeper, almost animal-like rum. In the heart, a bright, metallic rose challenges an addictive chestnut note. Finally, in the base, patchouli vibrates with a creamy accord of sandalwood and labdanum.

Beyond a higher concentration, how do you embody the notion of intensity in a fragrance?
This notion of intensity is embodied by adding powerful, heady notes to the top, heart and base notes. They allow the fragrance to vibrate for longer, for an infinite trail in all circumstances.

What makes THIS IS REALLY HER! a typically Parisian fragrance that can be worn day or night?
Thanks to the variety of its raw materials, THIS IS REALLY HER! is a multi-faceted fragrance that embraces the quintessential Parisian lifestyle. Rose pays homage to the timeless elegance of Paris, as well as to its avant-garde side, thanks to its metallic sparkle. Warm woody and amber notes evoke the spirit of Parisian nocturnal adventures.

Any tips on how to make your fragrance last into the wee hours of the morning?
Perfuming your hair or clothes gives you a pleasant sensation at different times of the day, when you least expect it. Even into the early hours of the morning, after a festive evening.

THIS IS REALLY HER! has been designed with eco-responsibility in mind. What did you do to achieve this?
The intention in creating THIS IS REALLY HER! was also to create a more eco-responsible fragrance. Robertet, the world leader in natural raw materials, offers a wide range of ingredients that are subject to environmental, social and societal actions. So I used several natural raw materials, sourced in an eco-responsible way. These include Turkish Damascena rose, patchouli from Indonesia, labdanum from Spain and the pink berry.

How would you describe the sensation of wearing the THIS IS REALLY HER! fragrance?
When you wear this fragrance, you feel different, freer and more powerful. It gives you a certain self-confidence that allows you to go beyond your own limits, to make room for unexpected and rebellious adventures.

Two words to describe this fragrance?
Boundless !

You’ve been part of the THIS IS! adventure from the outset. What’s the secret to writing the next chapter in the olfactory history of THIS IS!, which is currently an emblematic point of reference in perfumery. Is it a perilous challenge, or a creative foregone conclusion?
It’s a great pleasure to be able to express myself again concerning this beautiful brand that I love so much. A perilous challenge or creative foregone conclusion? Perhaps a bit of both. By taking up the codes of THIS IS! I’m exploring a new olfactory story, very much in tune with the times. I’m lucky enough to have a real bond of trust with Zadig&Voltaire because I’ve worked with the designers from the start.

The ideal fragrance envelops the wearer’s skin, like a perfectly cut garment. Generally speaking, do you think there are many parallels between fashion and perfume?
Yes, there are many parallels, particularly in the creative process, which is the same. It involves the choice of materials and structure, just as a fashion designer would choose the fabric and the cut. There’s also the search for balance, and re-transcribing the brand’s DNA. It’s my role as a creative perfumer to know how to translate the Zadig style into a fragrance. Fragrance is often the ultimate complementary accessory, made to go perfectly with the outfit. It is the signature of a look and a reflection of the image you want to convey.

And more specifically, what are the Zadig & Voltaire fashion codes found in THIS IS REALLY!?
Zadig & Voltaire has a unique style that combines impertinence with a touch of rock. We find these codes at THIS IS REALLY HIM!: fine materials like Ambrox® and notes of orange blossom, combined with silver flashes that give the fragrance a lot of vibrancy. I chose these ingredients for their sparkle and radiance; they’re synonymous with endless celebration. This fragrance perfectly reflects the brand’s rebellious and daring attitude.

What was your creative process in developing the formula for THIS IS REALLY HIM!?
Zadig & Voltaire wanted to tell a festive story, a never-ending, slightly crazy celebration, through this new fragrance, through THIS IS REALLY HIM! To convey this concept, I had to bring in notes that were synonymous with partying. I was particularly inspired by two materials in my dsm-firmenich palette. Ambrox®, which brings salty, deep and carnal tones, similar to the smell of skin. And the orange blossom notes, worked into a metallic accord to give a very luminous, slightly animal, slightly decadent impression.

Both THIS IS REALLY HER! and THIS IS REALLY HIM! have a signature metallic accord. Could you tell us more about this new accord?
Orange blossom is often seen as a wise and innocent scent, so I wanted to reinvent it forTHIS IS REALLY HIM! by awakening its floral and green tones, and giving it a quirky, rocky twist like Zadig. To do this, I created a metallic orange blossom accord by combining petitgrain essence (an essence obtained by distilling the leaves of the orange tree) with aldehyde molecules to bring an unexpected, magnetic and captivating floral facet.

From day to night. From night to day. How do you inject this different luminosity, like an olfactory chiaroscuro, into a fragrance?
For this new creation, I was inspired by Parisian nights, by its celebrations that stretch intothe early hours of the morning. I played with the light and contrasts in my palette of raw materials. The deep, mysterious colours of the night echo the richness of Ambrox®, while the arrival of dawn is embodied by captivating notes of orange blossom. Silver and metallic flashes punctuate the fragrance, synonymous with a never-ending party.

Beyond a higher concentration, how do you embody the notion of intensity in a fragrance? And how do you twist this intensity in a masculine fragrance so that it’s not too literal?
To add intensity to THIS IS REALLY HIM! I used deep, rich notes like patchouli essence, Madagascar vanilla absolute and Ambrox®. I combined them with contrasting accords, such as a really high-quality Elémi Philippines SFE, and a metallic orange blossom accord. To enhance the whole, I added the diffusive notes of SFE incense (also known as CO2) in the top notes and the impertinence of lemon and grapefruit essences. The contrast is expressed throughout the fragrance, adding depth.

What makes THIS IS REALLY! a typically Parisian fragrance that can be worn day or night?
THIS IS REALLY HIM! is a fragrance that is both elegant and daring, allowing the man who wears it to make it his favourite fragrance, day or night. This fragrance is made up of an original and mysterious accord, elegant, full of audacity and as urban as Parisian style.

Any tips on how to make your fragrance last into the wee hours of the morning?
Nowadays, there aren’t many rules. The important thing is to spray your fragrancegenerously. Of course on the skin, but also on clothes and even hair, which are a perfect olfactory support. To reinforce the scent, you can also spray it on a jacket, which you keep with you.

THIS IS REALLY! has been designed with eco-responsibility in mind. What did you do to achieve this?
Absolutely, it was a shared desire with the Zadig&Voltaire team to create in an eco-responsible way. I work with an eco-responsible scoring tool, Ecoscent Compass. Integrated into my creation station, it allows me to guide my creative choices and shape a fragrance that brings pleasure while being as responsible as possible. At dsm-firmenich, we have a very dynamic innovation programme. For example, I used two specific qualities of Elemi Philippines and Frankincense, which are two ingredients in the THIS IS REALLY HIM! fragrance. We obtain them using the SFE process (a CO2 extraction), which uses less solvent and therefore fewer resources than traditional volatile solvent extraction. What’s more, the ingredients are heated less, so it also preserves all the facets and natural olfactory identity of the raw material.

How would you describe the sensation of wearing the THIS IS REALLY HIM! fragrance?
When you wear THIS IS REALLY HIM! you feel bold and casual, thanks to the metallic orange blossom accord. But also great elegance, with the woody base and patchouli essence. And finally, a certain sensuality with the Madagascar vanilla absolute.

Two words to describe this fragrance?
I’d say ‘captivating’ and ‘magnetic’.

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Really! Her (£119.00) & This Is Really! Him (£82.00), available to buy at The Perfume Shop