Wonderland.

TORY BURCH

Inspired by the “everyday sublime,” Tory Burch strikes the perfect chord between nostalgic references and contemporary reinterpretations in her AW24 collection.

Last night, Tory Burch’s AW24 collection dazzled the halls of the New York Public Library. Crowds of eager passersby and paparazzi eagerly watched a star-studded front row – including Uma Thurman, Awkwafina, and Kathryn Newton – climb the stairs to the Stephen A. Schwarzman.

Behind the library facade, to the eclectic beats of Joy Division, The Cure, and Bach, playful reinterpretations of Tory’s ready-to-wear classics turned heads. The timeless yet contemporary 34-look collection derived inspiration from the silhouettes and textures of ordinary objects, presenting itself in a confluence of architectural details and effortless silhouettes. “We were thinking about making the everyday sublime: an old jacket, a lampshade, even a shower cap,” Burch shared in the show notes. Sharp angles, smocked curves, and bonded performance-wear evoked the volume of these unassuming sources of inspiration, reinterpreted through a wide array of textiles.

Striking a balance between strength and sensuality, models walked in layered, juxtaposing looks of light, sheer pieces and structured, sleek counterparts. She alternated between the refined – including the glossy faux croc and calf hair – and the undone – from frayed wool to unravelling ruffles – and subverted the standard construction of performance wear through raw-cut, heat-bonded seams. Using raw denim, paper leather, and cotton-blends treated to give a “crocodile skin” finish were frequent players, Burch placed an emphasis on sustainability — making magic out of the ordinary and proving her concept truly goes beneath the surface.

Emily Ratajowski – donning earrings of clusters of glass fruit – walked in a faux croc bodysuit beneath a sheer jersey mesh skirt, encompassing the effortless confluence of sensuality and a newfound edge.

Burch also played with a captivating melange of flapper-style elements and 1960s styles, with unexpected electric pops of cyan and orange in an otherwise predominantly-neutral colour palette and tinsel raffia that brightened up the space. Highlights included Paloma Elsesser’s black tinsel raffia dress and Irina Shayk’s closing oversized coat similarly made of tinsel raffia but in a shimmery white.

And, of course, Burch also included subtle, fresh reinterpretations of the brand’s staples, including their signature Lee Radziwill in a shopper tote and messenger in an array of colours and finishes, including a cyan leather and tonal jacquard. A new Pierced pump included a larger, edgier toe ring, and the ergonomic Fleming minaudière from Spring/Summer 2024 comes in a 3D-printed faux acetate.

Burch struck a balance between nostalgic references and forward-thinking materials in this cohesive and contemporary collection. The label has experienced ebbs and flows since its inception exactly 20 years ago last week, but the risks taken in the AW24’s collection are sure to push the comeback of the “Torrysaince.”

Scroll for some of our favourite looks…