Weaving through the Euston crowds towards the desired platform, my hurried stride becomes a scurry. As I clamber onto the train, the doors close in finality and I take a deep sigh of relief, happy to have not started the day off on the wrong foot. I’m on my way to Manchester courtesy of esteemed fashion brand Moss to see their striking new AW23 collection firsthand, and to attend the launch of one of their new stores in the city.

We’re deep into a late summer heatwave, with the train journey proving to be incredulously sweltering, but as I step out of Manchester Piccadilly, I am grateful to experience somewhat of a breeze and a standing temperature several degrees lower than the sticky Capital from which I have travelled. I worry of being underdressed, sporting some navy shorts and a white band tee, but as the afternoon proceeds, it’s clear that my casual attire mirrors the ethos of the brand I was here for.

Since its inception in 1851, Moss – previously Moss Bros – have their foundation lain in the very core of British fashion. Boasting an esteemed and evolving heritage, the brand has been amongst the most significant menswear retailer in the country throughout their history. The decision to drop the ‘Bros’ from their title highlights the recent innovation at the very core of their stylistic ideologies, reflecting a company that is now more modern, eclectic and progressive than ever before.

Having met up with the rest of the press party and checked into the grandiose hotel at which we would be spending the night, it was time for me to catch up with Gabriella Brick, the quintessential player in Moss’ development. Sporting years of experience at the company – originating as an intern and now upholding the position of Head of Design – Brick is at the epicentre of Moss’ impressive rebrand, diversifying the portfolio with each passing collection, reshaping the public’s expectation in the process.

Within minutes of our conversation, the passion about Moss’ restructuring and core brand philosophy was evident. “A job here encapsulates a lot more than what it does elsewhere in the industry,” offers Brick. “You’re designing, involved in photography, involved in styling, buying the fabrics, producing the garments, negotiating. The buying only covers a small portion.”

Brick highlights a tight-knit team that has faith aplenty placed in them. “I think we’re given a lot of responsibility and respect; whereas in a lot of corporate companies, you’ve got to go through layers and there’s red tape, here you’re really listened to,” she expands. “We’re a really small buying and design team and we work incredibly closely together, which I think is evident in the work that we produce and how our products look and come together.”

This faith is reflective in the brand’s firm stance on quality of product, and increasing focus on sustainability. “When sustainability was becoming a big thing it’s us that pushed it, because not only do I feel personal responsibility, it’s important to me to work for a brand that it’s important to as well,” she ardently explains. “The people at the top listen to us and we’ve made some really big changes.”

Labelling Moss as a “reactive” establishment, she pinpoints an openness to consumer feedback as essential to the success of their passing collections, which is more evident than ever in the new AW23 collection. This can be seen in the post-COVID evolution that has occurred. “We recognised that where we were thriving before was with people traditionally wearing suits to work,” Brick offers. “But people aren’t going back to work in the same way. They’re sitting on Teams or Zoom. And if they are going back to work, they want to be comfortable. We used our tailoring expertise and skillset to design this casual range. We played on our strengths, saw the sales coming in and started to really grow it.”

“We’re covering all bases of a man’s life,” she adds. “He could come to us for all those key occasions that he needs a suit for. Now, he can come to us and have his casual outfit as well.” This versatility and chameleonic nature is allowing Moss to remain ahead of the curb, expanding their buying demographic and cementing their status in the upper echelons of the wider industry.

Whilst more casual a collection than previous entries, it’s an amalgamation of their classic approach with new ideals, providing an augmentation for the overall collection. “We’ve made the formal more casual and the casual more formal,” the designer says. “It’s really bridged that gap, it all blends in together. People really want investment pieces, they want to invest in their clothes now; gone are the days of fast fashion.”

One thing that stands out about AW23 is the diversity of the colour schemes. Vibrant, varied and forward-thinking, the palettes include Azure Breeze, Crimson Sands, Slate Mocha and Terra Shadow, flaunting the motley nature of the collection, stretching far beyond wearability and into luxury fashion. “Every single colour was designed to sit amongst a colour palette,” Brick continues. “Fashion is important, people do want to dress in colour. It’s about being selective on it and making sure that it’s the exact colour and the right tone.”

So where does this collection sit in the wider legacy of Moss? Well, it might be more casual in terms of style, but quality is certainly not being overlooked in the transformative process. “We’ve always been known for quality and our heritage. We’ve got so much history, and I think the link between then and where we’re going now is within the craftsmanship,” insights Brick. “Every single thing we do, we’re elevating. We’re doing it because this is what we believe is the best offer for the customer. That transparency and relationship is really important to us. So I think changing people’s brand perception of what Moss is upholds the key to success.”

Our fascinating conversation comes to an end, and it’s time for a quick freshen up before heading over to the highly anticipated store event. After I’ve found myself a liquid refreshment and coiled in embarrassment at the fact that every other guest is better dressed than I am, I begin to browse through the collection, and am immediately drawn to its effervescence and flexibility, characteristics I was promised in my conversion with the Moss’ Head of Design.

From its core tailoring expertise has spouted a invigoration of colour, inclusivity and guise, with an assortment of jackets, trousers, t-shirts, over-shirts, roll-necks and more, showcasing the breadth of item, and expanding buyer market that Moss envisions for their present and future.

Following a lovely few hours of live music (a peculiar but highly effective combination of a DJ and strings section) and a few more refreshing beverages, we head to dinner with the Moss team. Given the opportunity to get to know them a little better, it becomes apparent that this is a team bursting with personality and creativity, who work together seamlessly, consistently focused on doing what’s best for each other, the company and the buyer.

Sat on my return train, I’m grateful for the opportunity to meet the Moss team and to see their excellent new collection. It feels like I’ve witnessed the mere precipice of the brand’s development, with the ensuing years promising further exploration, experimentation and excitement. SS24 sequel incoming?

Shop Moss’ Autumn/Winter 2023 collection here.