NYFW | Marc Jacobs AW17

February 17th, 2017

Hip-Hop Evolution inspires a neutral palette, amped up gold jewellery, and a surprisingly silent runway for Marc Jacobs AW17.


Retro Runway

Marc Jacobs’ AW17 runway was heavily reminiscent of the glitz and glamour of the 70’s, with shearling coats and thick fur collars paired with thigh-baring party dresses and extra-tall platform boots. The collection, Jacobs said in a statement, came about after he watched Hip-Hop Evolution – a documentary chronicling the rise of hip-hop from the 70’s to the 90’s, and reminded him of his time at the High School of Art and Design where he “began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style”. The retro continued with corduroy making a key comeback this season – think short coats and baggy track-inspired flare pants letting the texture do the talking. Oversized gold chains and gilded mice pendants juxtaposed the idea of simplicity in everyday dressing at the heart of the AW17 collection.

50 Shades of Brown

You can never have too much brown, as evidenced by the many variations present, from classic camel and walnut to ginger and gold, with appearances by maroon and red. Though if you are going to wear red, take note and rock it in a head-to-toe luxe sportswear ensemble for maximum impact. The warm neutral palette allowed for character and identity to be expressed through accessories, and by the models themselves. Diversity shone on the runway, and hinted at a subtle response to the controversy that surrounded the faux dreadlocks decision at Jacobs’ rave-inspired SS17 show. Gurls Talk founder Adwoa Aboah, fashion model-turned-activist Winnie Harlow, and of course, Kendall Jenner exuded attitude and youth culture street-style edge sans musical accompaniment. Yes, the hip-hop inspired collection was brought out on a silent runway… with a complete social media ban.

More than a Hat Trick

Nothing tops off a look quite like a larger-than-life hat. Pumped up bucket hats and baseball caps dominated the collection, taking cues from what Jacobs deemed “the haberdashery and elegancy of Andre 3000”. The extra-rounded bucket hats came in simple shades of beige and taupe, with standouts featuring leopard print and all-over sequins. Though Andre 3000 may not have been in attendance, guests included Katy Perry, Frances Bean Cobain and Vic Mensa.

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