January 10th, 2017
AW17 saw BERTHOLD explore the rhythm of restriction.
Scratches, scars and stitches
In typical BERTHOLD fashion, the inspirations behind the AW17 collection were not to be expected. Covering the studio in photographs of scratches, scars and stitches, as well as 3D prosthetics, curved metal body braces and all manner of medical equipment, BERTHOLD used the normally unappealing images to inspire a collection titled “Asylum”. It’s not difficult to see why.
In keeping with the images he used for inspiration, the BERTHOLD collection explored restriction, through roughly wrapped bandaging around faces and skin-tight body gloves. The collection came in hygienic polar whites, deep black and a colour that was not too dissimilar to a bruise – adding even more to the aged medical centre effect. With hospital corridors inspiring languid and oversized silhouettes, through tunics and winter coats, as well as the bomber jackets and skinny trousers with elbows and knees split, BERTHOLD’s collection was almost medical in its precision.
Inspired by well-worn leather and aged papers left collecting dust, the textures of BERTHOLD’ s AW17 collection were vast and varied. From the fuzzy to the dimpled to the crisp, the collection involved rich felted wools and technical fabrics, as well as fluffy mohair and cotton suiting.
Photography: Willem Jaspert