Wonderland.

LFW: Roksanda AW16

Get to know the dark side of Roksanda this season.

Darkly Dreaming

Roksanda’s latest offering took a dark turn away from the bold and bright aesthetic of her previous collections. Inspiration started with Charlotte Rampling’s masochistic character in the cult classic film The Night Porter, before turning to the late American fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville, famed for bringing a more brooding element to the field. Tobacco, burgundy and midnight blue were as colourful as it got in a palette that was both muted and mysterious, while star prints and paisley swirls on billowy dresses transformed the string of sullen models into a modern-day coven.

Feminine Touches

Thankfully, Roksanda’s trademark femininity was not lost beneath the sheets of darkness. Materials were still as opulent: shawls and coats were made out of golden furs, while blouses with exaggerated wrists came in velvet, silk and chiffon. Harlequin-esque collars were softened with bows of black ribbon, and ruffles were seen everywhere from the shoulders to the ankles.

Handbags At Dawn

In a show of many firsts for Roksanda, it was only fitting that she took the opportunity to launch her first collection of handbags as well. Having your handbags debut the morning after accessories giants Mulberry and Anya Hindmarsh showcased theirs is by no means an easy feat, but Roksanda’s collection of leather-made, velvet-lined handbags managed to hold their own. They never stole the show, but they sure did complete it.

Words
Lewis Goodacre