Tough military codes teamed with lavish furs – Jason Wu AW15 was a lesson in fierce power dressing.

Everything to know was in the first look: a matching wool jacket and calf-length skirt – army fatigue green – worn over a belted fur with an aggressive shoulder-hugging collar. Militant toughness – met with exacting sophistication.

This well-ordered sense of luxury was the recurring victory throughout, a perfect match for Wu, whose characteristic fastidiousness sometimes betrays him, yet this season he made feel necessary.

Textures were stiff and masculine – mostly wool, complimented by glistening instances of patent-leather in razor-thin belts and gold-heeled booties. With military olive as a base, colors ranged from khaki to steely gray: baby-faced Yumi Lambert smouldered in iridescent slate-blue, while Wu’s coat-length version of a black-and-white suit tempered the famously sensual Paz de la Huerta.

The attitude carried over in crocodile-stamped leather – a full-length crocodile dress, and a stiff peplum top. This was power dressing at its fearsome finest.