Wonderland.

PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK: JOHN GALLIANO AW13

Bill Gaytten puts his best foot forward at John Galliano – but did John’s return upstage him?

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

It’s been a steep learning curve in the fashion world for Bill Gaytten, the Bartlett-trained architect who initially stepped up to helm Dior after Galliano’s infamous anti-semitic outburst. And now, just as the Bartlett-trained architect was settling into his role as creative director of Galliano, John Galliano announces his intention to stage a daring comeback with the help of Oscar de la Renta.

Gaytten may have struggled initially with both Dior and Galliano, but it seems that he’s slowly coming into his own now he’s flying solo with Galliano. In the autumn/winter menswear collection, there were Galliano touches (the tapered carrot trouser, for instance) but on the whole, Gaytten has a much more restrained and less theatrical vision for Galliano. Rich wool and felt dominated, with oversized trilbies lending a slightly more boho touch – apparently inspired by the late artist Joseph Beuys, but not unlike the kind of headgear that Galliano himself would approve of. But as for John returning to reclaim his house? So far, no comment.

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Backstage at John Galliano menswear AW13 (Image: Harry Carr)

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Harry Carr