Scandinavia’s Maki Aminaka and Marcus Wilmont, better known as foremost designing engine Aminaka Wilmont, are poised to showcase their fall collection for the first time at London Fashion Week‘s BFC Showspace on Tuesday. Set to continue to explore their interest in shape, silhouette and emasculation, the duo talked thoughtfully to Wonderland about it.
You met whilst working under Robert Cary-Williams – how did the partnership flourish from there?
I was looking for an internship while doing my MA at the Royal College. Maki happened to be Robert’s studio manager and was the one interviewing me for the role. I remember coming away thinking she was quite hardcore and very professional… and hoping I would get the internship even more than before the interview!
What influences and ideas do you share?
Actually, we don’t! We generally have very different ideas and directions for where we want the season to go creatively. But this is the way we work and we use this diversity and conflict to create our collections. Ultimately, the strongest ideas and influences melt together and the needless unimportant parts fall away [allowing us to] focus the core aesthetic with much more precision.
What can we expect from your new collection, showcasing for the first time on Tuesday? What fabrics, shapes, patterns and themes does it explore?
We are continuing with our signature leather garments and complex jersey draping. ‘Soft meets hard’ has always been a favourite theme of ours. We are also trying out a more sculpted woven section of dresses (direction) this season which is a step towards a more minimalistic point of view that we have become increasingly attracted to. The prints are signature dark and eye-catching with one sultry and colourful style that sums up the harder vibe of the collection.
What themes and motifs are you enjoying this (forthcoming) spring?
Nature! We have always been drawn to the singular perfection of design in nature.
How has your working relationship developed over time? Is it easier than ever to produce pieces you’re happy with now?
We’ve been working in fashion for a while now and every season becomes more relaxed and confident in our work. There are still moments where the work seems almost like torture and reaching the desired result seems like a never-ending journey… But if it was easy, I doubt we would appreciate and enjoy the work in the same way. Our aesthetic has become much more self-assured though, and that does help the creative process.
Words: Jack Mills